By Nick Rallo
The dal — a silky textured soup, sunflower hued with turmeric, ginger, jalapeño and coriander powder — has always been a bright light at Kalachandji’s, and it still is. The yellow mung beans are whisked until smooth, crackling with mustard and cumin seeds and curry leaves. With a scoop of warm, textured rice alongside a spoonful of searing spicy pickle, you’ll feel two kinds of tears, caused by both spice and the emotional comfort of a perfect dish. “All the spices that we use ... they’re not just there. It’s not a whimsical thing. It’s all medicinal as well," Thomas says.